Medical professionals have raised concerns about the trend. Associate Prof Giovanni Damiani of the University of Milan told The Guardian - Main UK that he noticed an increase in irritant and allergic contact dermatitis on the faces of 8- to 14-year-old patients, who used chemical exfoliants such as alpha hydroxy acids and retinoids without appropriate medical prescriptions. Damiani teamed up with clinical psychologist Alberto Stefana to study cosmeticorexia, and a pair of Italian researchers released a paper in March suggesting the condition 'may represent a clinically relevant mental disorder'.
Broader societal and regulatory responses are emerging. Italian authorities cracked down on big beauty brands for allegedly targeting younger shoppers, citing cosmeticorexia as a cause for concern, according to multiple reports. Party bags now contain face masks and fluffy headbands instead of glitter and gummy bears. Grace Collinson from the Butterfly Foundation told The Guardian - Main UK that there has been a rise in patients showing 'appearance-related distress', with patterns of behaviour including high levels of self-scrutiny, repetitive mirror checking, skin picking, and anxiety. The term 'dermorexia' was first used by Guardian columnist Jessica DaFino in her Substack in 2023.
They all used similar cosmetics.
Refusing to go out without makeup, for example. The excessive use of cosmetics or watching cosmetic related videos. Switching their interests, basically obliterating everything else.
What interests us, besides the term, is to understand if cosmeticorexia could be regarded, in pre-adolescents, as a risk factor for body dysmorphia.
Second, if the use of so many cosmetics at a young age could lead to the frequency of contact dermatitis.
appearance-related distress, particularly amongst young people
heightened focus on skin, perceived imperfections, and a strong drive towards 'flawlessness'